DIY Crochet Granny Pouch

Hello world!

A week ago I have found myself struggling with my bag at the parking lot, trying to dig out car keys while holding two bags in each hand. Sounds messy right? As always, crocheting popped into my mind as a solution to my problem. I needed small, sturdy bag to hold my car keys and change for parking, that will be easy and quickly to find and grab from my bag!

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ABOUT the pattern

The pattern is extremely simple. I just made two solid granny squares by exchanging colors every row, then joined them together by single crochet stitch and sew the zipper. Since it is a fairly simple pattern I am only going to provide you instructions, rather than the detailed pattern.

Unlike conventional granny squares which are all worked in double crochet, I’ve decided to work mine in single crochet because it would give them more sturdiness. Bellow you can see the solid granny square pattern which is (with small alterations) basically the same thing as mine so you can use it as a help to build your pouch.

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The differences are that I used sc instead of dc, made magic circle instead of foundation chain, started with 8 stitches in the first row instead 12, and did only 2 stitches in ch2 spaces.

NOTE:

How to exchange the color at the end of the row?

When you are making the last sc of the row: with color A on your hook insert the hook into the stitch, pull color A through the stitch (two loops of color A on your hook),  pick up color B and pull through both loops. Now you are starting the new row with new color. This does not apply to the 1st row joint.

PART ONE: Granny squares

Start by making a magic circle with white.

Rnd1: ch1, *2sc, ch2*, repeat from *to* 3 more times. Join to the first sc: insert hook into the st and instead pulling through the white yarn to make a slip stitch, pick up blue, pull through sc an pull through the 2nd chain.

Rnd2: ch1, sc into the first sc, sc in next, sc in ch2 space, ch2, sc in ch2 space, *2sc, sc in ch2 space, ch2, sc in ch2 space*, repeat from *to* 3 more times. Work last sc as described in the NOTE.

Rnd 3-11: Just repeat rnd 2 and make sure you change color in every round. When you come to the end of round 11, slip stitch in the first st of the round and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Repeat one more time  for the second granny.

I suggest blocking the squares after this step.

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PART TWO: Joining granny squares together

Lay one granny over the other making sure their wrong sides are facing you.  You will connect them on any three sides  by sc stitch.

  1. Pick any corner and slip stich through to connect two squares together.
  2. Now start connecting them by pulling hook through 1st sc of each granny and making a sc, continue in the pattern. This also counts for next two corners – you will be joining them with one sc in each.
  3. When you come to the 4th corner join with slip stitch and fasten off.

To get the best results, make sure that stitches with weaved in ends are connected(hidden) by sc, meaning that they don’t show at the top of the pouch where you will sew it to zipper.

PART THREE: Adding the zipper

Unzip the zipper and with wrong sides facing you, connect it to the edges of the pouch with few pins. Sew the pouch to the zipper using white thread. Here is a great photo tutorial on how to sew a zipper since it’s very hard to explain it using words and I don’t have my own pictures of the process🙂

And there it is! At the end I’ve decided to give it to my friend as a b-day gift… But that’s okay because now I’m having fun with new pouchy that I will definitely not give to anybody, hopefully🙂

Anyway, if you are having some questions, thoughts, photos or anything, make sure to post them in the comments bellow. And happy making!😉

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Make knitting/crochet Pattern using Pixelz Software

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FlowersHello! Today I am going to show you how you can simply create knitting or crochet pattern using my software called Pixelz. The idea for creating such program popped into my mind few years ago while I was drawing some shapes for a tapestry crochet project. I was thinking how cool would it be to have a software in which I could draw by simply clicking the squares – that would sure make things easier! Fortunately, my BF is a programmer  and he was very happy to execute this idea🙂 Recently I was using it for my new project (which will hopefully be the subject of my next blog post) and noticed that some crucial things are missing so we furnished it a bit. Now it’s ready to be used for creating all sorts of crazy patterns😛

Like its name suggests, Pixelz  is basically a canvas grid which can be filled with the selected color and every square counts as one stitch. You can also work in multiple tabs, create your own color palettes, save the sketch as image and use a system of coordinates which can navigate you through the rows and stitch numbers. For this tutorial I’ve created  a pixelated t-rex just to show you how Pixelz can be used. If you like what you see, no worries – I’ll share the link from which you can download it and use it for your projects, for free🙂

  1. This is the basic interface of Pixelz. It’s a starting point from where you create new file and where you can always return in case you forget controls🙂1
  2. After clicking ‘Create new’ you are able to choose the canvas size. If you later happen to run out of space, you can simply change the size through the ‘Edit’ menu.2
  3. Now it’s drawing time! I’ve made a sample t-rex simply using four previously mentioned controls. While drawing, you can put all of the colors you are using for the drawing into a custom color palette by clicking the + button (next to palett button). That way you don’t get confused about which shade you have used and you keep track of work. Palette colors are shown on the left. Btw, you can use multiple tabs!3
  4. Having a drawing tool for knitting and crochet is cool but it can get tricky when you are drawing a big project and you need something to keep track of your rows and stitch numbers. That is why Pixelz has a system of coordinates. By holding alt and clicking on wanted square, it’s coordinate shows up. In this picture I wanted to find out position of the top left square. That is 16:6 – counting from left its position is 16th stitch in 6th row.4
  5. And the last feature, you can save your work as an image so you can print it out, or save on a device🙂 Just click on file-> export.6

That would be all from me and this quick tutorial. Let me know if you have some questions in the comments bellow. Software can be downloaded from this link. When or if you use it for creating patterns, I would love to hear your impressions. Suggestions and bug reports are most welcome!🙂 And hey, you can even give it to your kids to play!

Make: Vibrant Bohemian Necklace

2016-06-01 14.11.17I have a huge stash of embroidery floss in all colors possible so I’ve decided to create quick and fun project using one of my favorite color combos. It took me approximately 40 minutes to crochet and furnish this lovely piece. Make one yourself using my free instructions from the text below.

SUPPLIES

  • Brass bead
  • Brass chain
  • Embroidery floss (four different colors)
  • 3 mm hook
  • Tapestry needle

PATTERN

Thread  on brass bead and make a magic circle.

Row 1: into magic circle ch 1, sc 16 – color A (gold)

Row 2: ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next* to the end of the row (22 dc) –color B (peach)

Row 3: ch 5 (tr plus ch 1 space), *tr, ch 1* to the end of the row –color C (rusty brown)

Row 4: in ch 1 spaces make *sc, ch 2(make a picot), sc*, repeat in each ch1 space to the end of the row – color D (light blue)

Now, attach your brass chain to the first and last sc of row 4.

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This is pretty much it! You can alternatively choose to block your finished piece before attaching the chain or use different kind of cotton for even better(stiffer) results as embroidery is quite delicate. Enjoy your necklace and feel free to share your thoughts and pictures in the comments bellow!

The simplest crochet basket

4.jpgIf you are in search of quick, easy and pretty crochet pattern then go ahead and make this basket following my free pattern. I made it in an hour when I was looking for an addition to a gift I have purchased for a friend. It works as storage or a decoration, it’s perfect for beginners and can be excellent last-minute gift solution!

The pattern is worked in single crochet entirely, by exchanging two colors and is 25 cm wide.

MATERIALS NEEDED

  • Bulky cotton yarn (white and beige)
  • 7 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch marker
  • Tapestry needle

PATTERN

Start with a magic ring. The rounds are worked without joining.

Rnd 1: ch1, sc 5 in the ring; place the stitch marker in the last sc.

Place the marker in the last stitch of each of the following rows  as you work.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc of the previous row (10 sc)

Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next st, sc in next* to the end of the row (15 sc)

Rnd 4: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next two stitches, 2 sc in next st, sc in next two* to the end of the row (20 sc)

Rnd 5: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next three stitches, 2 sc in next st, sc in next three* to the end of the row (25 sc)

Rnd 6: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next four stitches, 2 sc in next st, sc in next four* to the end of the row (30 sc)

Rnd 7: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next five stitches, 2 sc in next st, sc in next five* to the end of the row (35 sc)

Rnd 8: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next six stitches, 2 sc in next st, sc in next six* to the end of the row (40 sc)

Rnd 9: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next seven stitches, 2 sc in next st, sc in next seven* to the end of the row (45 sc)

Rnd 10: 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next eight stitches, 2 sc in next st, sc in next eight* to the end of the row (50 sc)

Rnd 11: in the BLO work sc to the end of the row (50 sc)

Rnd 12 – 14: sc to the end of the row (50 sc)

Switch color to white.

Rnd 15 – 18: sc to the end of the row (50 sc)

Switch color to beige.

Rnd 19: sc to the end of the row, bind off and weave in ends.

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There we are, enjoy your pattern! Make sure to share the results with me and post your comments bellow!!🙂

Vintage looking coin purse

This cute little purse was made few years ago but I anyway have decided to write down a pattern for my readers so you can have a bit fun with it! All you need is clutch mechanism, some pretty yarn and your crochet hook. Make sure you purchase mechanism with holes in its frame, so you can sew in your purse. I can’t even remember which hook size I used, but I think you can’t go wrong with 3mm hook and 8ply yarn. The pattern itself is really simple, just two small doilies joined together and then sewn in to the clutch frame. So, I’d say this is one hour of fun project with a pretty romantic outcome!

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ABBREVIATIONS:

‘V’: *dc, ch1/2, dc*

Cluster: 2dc, ch2, 2 dc

BLO: back loop only

PATTERN:

Start with a magic ring.

Round 1: ch3, dc 11, join to the 3rd ch of ch3 (12 dc)

Rnd 2: ch3, dc in same st, in the BLO work 2dc in each st to the end of the rnd, join to the 3rd ch of ch3 (24 dc)

Rnd 3: ch3, dc in same st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st*, join to the 3rd ch of ch3 (36 dc)

Rnd 4: ch1, sc in same st; in the BLO work *sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st*, join to the ch1 space. (48 sc)

Rnd 5: ch 4(counts as dc and ch1), dc in same st *ch 1, skip 2; in next st work dc, ch1, dc *, keep working to the end of the row ending with ch1 and joining to the 3rd ch of ch4 space

Rnd 6: in ch 1 space (the one between the ‘V’)  ch5(counts as dc and ch2), dc, in the ‘V’ only  work *ch1; dc, ch2, dc* , keep working to the end of the row ending with ch1 and joining to the 3rd ch of ch5 space

Rnd 7: in ch2 space ch3, dc, ch2, 2dc, ch 1, in ch2 space * 2dc, ch2, 2 dc, ch1*; repeat to the end of the row joining to the 3rd chain of ch3. Fasten off and weave in ends

JOINING:

Notice that you have 17 clusters in last round. Start joining from the beginning of 4th cluster, and fasten off when you come to the end of 14th cluster. Leave a long tail as you are going to need it to sew the clutch.

Tuck remaining parts of round 7 (6 clusters total) into the clutch frame and sew trough sewing holes on the outside of the frame. Optionally, you can make lining for your purse. I like mine better without the lining because it is more ‘baggy’ this way and the lace looks prettier.

So, if you want to make your coins cozy, I’m inviting you to make my vintage coin purse! If you like my pattern, spread the word on social media and help my blog get new followers🙂 And of course, share your results or comments with me!!

 

PIXELS BOW

I’ve been through some weird pixel phase recently . I’m not sure how would I describe what having a pixel phase means or where could it come from. Maybe it was from learning web design, another phase of mine🙂 Anyway, it  finally have manifested as making pixelated hair bow clip. Why I like this clip so much is that when you think about it, it is a little girl’s hair decoration put in serious context, avant-garde I’d dare to say!

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My pixel bow  is knitted flat, in one piece. I folded finished piece on half, joined tops together, bottoms together and then the sides were joined together as well. After that I got rectangular piece of fabric 4 inches wide and 2,8 inches tall.

Now, here is the written pattern with photo instructions so you can make one yourself.

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The pattern goes something like this:

ABBREVIATIONS:

A – white color

B – black color

KB/ KA – knit with B/A

PB/ PA – purl with B/A

NOTES:

  • Level: easy/intermediate
  • Rows that are entirely worked in purl/knit stitch, are always worked with B
  • When you are working with A, try to make your stitches less tense than you normally would (mine are bit too tight so they don’t show as nice as they should)

PATTERN:

With B, cast on 59.

Row 1: Knit entire row.

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K2B, K1A, K2B to the end of the row.

Row 4: with B, purl entire row.

Row 5: K2B, K1A, K2B to the end of the row.

Row 6: with B, purl entire row.

Row 7: with B, knit entire row.

Row 8: P2B, P1A, P2B to the end of the row.

Row 9: with B, knit entire row.

Row 10: with B, purl entire row.

Row 11. with B, knit entire row.

Row 12: P2B, P1A, P2B to the end of the row.

Rows 13-16: repeat knit and purl rows, ending with purl.

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Row 17: K2B, K1A, K2B to the end of the row.

Row 18: P2A, P1B, P2A to the end of the row.

Rows 19-25: repeat rows 17 and 18, ending with row 17

(Note: now you will be repeating rows 1-16, only in opposite direction)

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Rows 26-29: repeat rows 10 and eleven, ending with knit.

Row 30: P2B, P1A, P2B to the end of the row.

Rows 31-33: repeat knit and purl rows, ending with knit.

Row 34: P2B, P1A, P2B to the end of the row.

Rows 35-36: knit one row, purl one row.

Row 37: K2B, K1A, K2B to the end of the row.

Row 38: purl

Row 39: K2B, K1A, K2B to the end of the row.

Row 40: purl

Bind off.

After folding it in half, joining tops, bottoms and sides together  it’s time to somehow you attach it to the hair clip! I was first thinking of gluing two pieces together but glue would irreversibly ruin my pretty piece of fabric which I attentively knitted for hours (I’m a knitting newbie plus using tiny needles and thin yarn). So I decided to sew two pieces together, which at the end looks like this:

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Take you needle and a thread, make a knot at the end of the thread and pull it through the fabric as shown on picture below:

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Then, pull the needle through the whole center piece of the fabric, a shown on picture below. Repeat that several times until you feel that your bow is secure enough.

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Now attach the hair clip as shown on picture and sew it to the fabric securely.

This is it! I hope that instructions were clear enough and that you have decided to make one yourself! You can see how the final product looks on my hair:

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I wanted a minimalist feel to my bow so I chose to go with black and white. I would encourage you to experiment with more vivid colors. Whatever you choose to do, I would love to see the result, so please share it! Another idea would be to make a broche out of it – just glue it to a large pin. Or you can attach it to a rubber band, like I did few years before with this pretty bow:

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Happy making people! I hope you will enjoy it and wear it with proud!🙂

Crochet wall clock

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One of my favorite pins I’ve pinned on Pinterest is this crochet doily clock. Although this one is a real looker, I wanted something simpler and I bit more practical. After all, purpose of having a clock hanging of the wall is to actually know what time it is, and I’m just not sure that doily clock would be working for me in that case. I came up with simple double crochet circle pattern with some marks for better orientation. Marks are consisted of ‘beams’ and pointy picot clusters at the top of each beam.  After soaking in starch, blocking and pulling cooper wire through the back, I’ve implemented the clock mechanism. Mechanism was purchased on eBay for less than a dollar.

If you are ready to get started, this is the clock pattern:

Start with a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Chain 5 (counts as dc and ch-2 space), *dc, ch 2*,  repeat from * to * six more times, join to the 3rd chain of ch-5. (8 dc and ch-2 spaces)

Rnd 2: Chain 3, 2dc into the same space, ch 2, *3 dc in next dc, ch 2* , repeat from * to * six more times, join to the 3rd chain of first dc. (24 dc and 8 ch-2 spaces)

Rnd 3: Chain 3, dc in same space, dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, *2 dc in next dc, dc, 2 dc, ch 2*,   repeat from * to * six more times, join to the 3rd chain of first dc. (40 dc and 8 ch-2 spaces)

(notice that you are forming triangles separated by ch-2 spaces)

Rnd 4-7: Chain 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, *2 dc in next dc, 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from * to * six more times, join to the 3rd chain of first dc. Repeat this pattern by making increases in the first and last dc of each ‘triangle section’ forming.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-2 space, join to first sc and fasten off. (112 sc)

Rnd 9: Join yarn to any of the sc’s made in ch-2 corner, ch 4(count as dc and ch1), in the same st: dc, ch 2 (make a picot), dc, ch 1, dc; skip 2 sc, sc in next 8 st, skip 2 st, *in the same st: dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2(picot st), dc, ch 1, dc; skip 2 sc, sc in next 8 st, skip 2 st*, repeat from * to * six more times, join to the 3rd chain of first dc.

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To give your clock some support, insert your cooper wire in the back of row 8 and pull  through entire row. I first made a small loop at the beginning of the wire, and when finished with pulling through, made another loop on the other end of the wire. Then I just attached loops to each other to give the wire more stability.

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When you are done, it’s time to set your mechanism. And be sure that the hook on the mechanism matches 12 o’ clock beam! ;D

Now find a decent place on your wall, stick a nail in it and voila!

NOTE: please do report if there is something wrong with the pattern, that is a possibility since I made the clock some time ago  :)

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